April 28th, 1961 Bis Rue du Debarcadere Paris

• April 28th, 1961
• Bis Rue du Debarcadere Paris XVII
• Sunny and mild in am. Cloudy in p.m.

Had le petitie dejeuner at out hotel and went exploring. Visited the Louvre after wandering about the Tuileries. Went to bank and got some of those confusing francs and bought some post cards and mailed them to a few people. Had lunch out of doors in the Tuileries but day was turning cooler so did not linger. Came back to rest after our visit to the Louvre and Dad left for further exploring. He came back at dinner time with tickets for a trip to Versailles tomorrow.  Haven't had a really decent meal yet. Where is the exquisite French cooking we hear so much of. Place de Concord, Royal etc. this eve.

April 27th, 1961 Meadow House & Paris France

• April 27th, 1961
• Meadow House & Paris France
• Some cloudiness Sunny late afternoon in Paris

Anne took us to the station and we caught the 8:45 am train for London. In good time for the Boat Train to Dover. The channel was fairly quiet and we had a good passage over with a fine dinner on the boat.

Reached Paris at about 6 PM and found accommodations at the Hotel Harvey, the place recommended by Dizzy. Dinner at the Chez Georges, making ourselves understood without too much difficulty after dinner strolled down the Avenue De la Grand Armee to the Arch of Triumph and over to the Champs Elyesee. Quite a day. 

April 26th, 1961 Meadow House, Brentwood, Essex

• April 26th, 1961
• Meadow House, Brentwood, Essex
• Cloudy with rain

A trip to the Launderette brought us up to date on fresh cloths. Brought some books for the grandchildren which I think they will like. The little English books for children all seem quite fascinating. We are packing to the train to London tomorrow. We take the boat train for our trip across the English Channel at 10:30 am and my first glimpse of  Paris although Dad has been there before in the first W.W. Conditions there have quieted considerable we manage to get a room at the place recommended by Dizzy we shall be all set. 

Harvey Hotel 7 Bis Rue du Debarcadere Paris 17 E Tel. Etoile 27-19

April 25th, 1961 Meadow House Brentwood

• April 25th, 1961
• Meadow House Brentwood
• Cloudy - some rain

This morning we got an early start to London and purchased our Boat Train tickets for Calais.  Reading "London, Dover, Calais" on the tickets made us think of "A Tail of Two Cities" Did some shopping in London. A darling dress and coat for Carol Ann, and some linen tea towels and a tea cloth for various people. Did not wish to buy too much in London as we may see other things in Paris, Rome and Switzerland. Visited the Royal Academy of Arts and saw the Sir Edwin Laudseer exhibition (1802-1873) Very fine-wide variety of subjects- all skillfully executed with a precision of detail. Saw the new Am. Embassy that the British term a monstrosity. not bad. Got some addresses of hotels in Rome from Catholic Travel Bureau. Ate at Palonio's Buckingham Rd, very fine meal.

  

April 24th, 1961 Meadow House

• April 24th, 1961
• Meadow House
• Sunny-Mild-Showery in London

Went down to Brentwood center to get my hair done. Very reasonable. Paid 1/3 of what it costs in Delaware. Very troubled times in Paris, so we went up to London to the AAA to find out about our going there this week. So far all planes are flying in and out and the man in the AAA seemed to think it would be safe to go. Dad has about made up his mind to make the trip and I can't very well desert him. While in London went to Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament. Attending a session in the House of Commons - very dry and uninteresting. Had high tea at St. Stephens, the place we had dinner on the day we met Peter to go down to Bexhill.

April 23rd, 1961 Meadow House Essex

• April 23rd, 1961
• Meadow House Essex
• Cloudy in A.M. Fair in PM

Went to church this morning to a little old place in Essex. After Mass, we set out to drive about the Essex countryside.  Visited one of the oldest churches in Eng. about 900 in Greensted.* Made of logs and a miracle of preservation. Then drove to Chiqwell to have dinner at the Kings Head-the inn made famous in Dickens' "Barnaby Rudge". Dickens stayed here when he wrote the book, and called it the Maypole in his novel. Entertaining atmosphere. Here were held the Quarterly Courts in Pre-Elizabethan and Elizabethan days. Built about 15th cent. Later visited an Old Saxon-Norman church dating from 1154.

*Bones of St Edmonds rested here in 1013 on the way to his resting place in Bury St Edmonds

April 22nd, 1961 Meadow House Essex

• April 22nd, 1961
• Meadow House Essex
• Rainy, intermittent sun

A quiet day. Went down to the launderette in the moving and got caught up on our laundry. Ironed them all today and we are quite up to date on fresh cloths. Jim had a tooth out which required dental surgery, so we decided, because of this, and because of the weather to rest in the afternoon. Enjoyed an evening of television and conversation. News came in that a state of emergency had been declared in France, and we are awaiting more news today and tomorrow to determine whether it will be wise to go there this coming week.

I believe the reason for the state of emergency was the Algiers putsch, a failed coup d'etat in France.

April 21st, 1961 Bexhill and Meadow House Brentwood

• April 21st, 1961
• Bexhill and Meadow House Brentwood
• Clear, Sunny, Cool

Down to the beach at Bexhill with Dad and Robert. A beautiful day, one of the best we've had in Eng. Taxi came at 2:05 to take us to the RR station for the trip to London. London carriage very comfortable and had tea and toast brought to us en route. Took a taxi across the city from Victoria Station to Liverpool Street, and passed by Buckingham Palace, through Trafalgar Sq. + Piccadilly Circus and by many other interesting points. Got to Meadow House in good time for dinner. Very nice to see them all again. Clarissa waiting anxiously for us.

 

April 20th, 1961 St Norbert's Bexhill Sussex, England

• April 20th, 1961
• St Norbert's Bexhill Sussex England
• Raw, cold, over-cast

Down to the sea with Robert this morning. Tide out and the three of us were able to walk far out over the sand looking for shells. I left Dad and Robert and came back early to write some letters. This afternoon Dad went to Bexhill to get his hair cut. Three shillings for a hair cut that would cost $1.50 in Delaware, even (in places) a $1.75.  Mandy, the fox terrier had her puppies last night. Three males and a female. She had been mated with a thoroughbred, but the puppies turned out to be mongrels. I suspect Labrador Retrievers in part.  Tomorrow we go to Essex to stay a but more with Anne and Jim.

April 19th, 1961 St Norbert's Bexhill, England

• April 19th, 1961
• St Norbert's Bexhill, England
• Raw and Cloudy

Jim called this a.m. to see if we planned to come back to Essex this weekend. Said they were counting on us. We assured him that we were. The boys left today for London. Suzanne, the maid, went with them to take care of them at their apt. in the mews. They will be at the famous cricket field at Lords for three days, learning the finer points of the game. Dad and I went to Brighton and had a wonderful promenade on the sea front and a very nice dinner. Bought a little leather change purse for Grampy Cox with the name of Brighton in gold letters upon it. He will be pleased.

April 18th, 1961: St. Norberts Bexhill

• April 18th, 1961
• St. Norberts Bexhill
• Sunny, mild

This morning Dad and I set out for a long walk on the promenade and a little shopping in the store section. Even their larger stores have an old world atmosphere, and a sense of crowdedness and hodgepodge. This afternoon we went back to Hastings Castle for some pictures as Dad did his camera on our first visit. We went down by the shore where the fishing vessels were coming in, and bought some nice fresh plaice for supper. Tomorrow we go to Brighton and will send a postcard to Grampy Cox from his old stomping grounds. Did a bit sewing ofr Kay today.

I am not sure who Grampy Cox was, and will have to poke around the family tree to see if I can figure it out.

April 17th, 1961: St. Norberts, Bexhill, Sussex

• April 17th, 1961
• St. Norberts Bexhill, Sussex
• Cloudy-Cool

This morning Peter and the boys demonstrated the fewer points of cricket to us. They have a small practice field in the garden. Dad and I took a long walk into Bexhill and did a little shopping. Visited St. Peter's Church (High Church) in Bexhill. It was consecrated in 772 and the deed of conveyance in the entrance, by Affa, King of the English, gives in ancient language, the rights of conveyance. There is also, in a glass case, the Stone of Bexhill- made of a sandstone not found in Sussex and thought to be brought by St. Wilfrith where he came to convert the Saxons. It has Saxon carvings upon it and is a thing of great antiquity. It is thought to be a relic, (possibly the covering to a saint's tomb.) which, until 800 or so was necessary in the R.C. church for the consecration of a church. Today Joan came with her children (2 of the 3 of them) for lunch. Later her husband came down to join her, have tea, and bring her home. Peter has gone to London to stay at their apt in the Mews. Joan's husband is a busy doctor and it was very gracious of him to take time from his work to meet us. Supper before the fire in the drawing room tonight.

April 16th, 1961: Bexhill, Sussex, England

• April 16th, 1961
• Bexhill, Sussex, England
• Cloudy in the a.m. turning sunny

We went ot Mass this morning at the church of Magdalen in  Bexhill. It was an ancaint stone edifice with the pulpit on the side aisle of the church instead of in front as are ours. Otherwise, aside fromthe architecture, one might be in an American church. This is understandable whenone reflects upon the antiquity of Roman Catholicism and its unchanging pattern. We strolled home admiring the little English gardens. In one there was a tablet which read something like this:

In the sun is the pardon of God.
In the song of the birds is His mirth
You are nearer God's heart in a garden
Than in any place else on earth.

 Dad went with Peter to the Cricket Club before noon dinner, and the boys and I went down to the shore. The sea was calm and lovely and the air bracing. This afternoon we set out on an exploration on a very grand scale. First we went to Eastbourne, a place by the sea with 3 promenades on graduating terraces and a profusion of flowers in formal beds almost unavailable for beauty.  Visited Pevensey Castle on the Pevensey marshes. The marshes on which Hitler planned to come down. The Castle was built by the Romans as a fortification, and the ruins of the chapel show the font and Saxon stone with a Saxon symbol carved on it. Following this we tramped the Sussex Downs. Extending for some 20 miles, they roll away into the blue distance with grass as short and green as any lawn. They tell us the chalk in the soil keeps the grass as short as though it had been mowed. At Bleachy Head we saw our first of the famous white Chalk Cliffs. Returning we stopped by the sea at Burling___ for our tea, served with heavenly melt-in-the mouth scones. In Hooe, a tiny village outside Bexhill we visited our first pub. It was all we imagined, with a cozy fire and gleaming bottles reflecting the light. Had a chandy, a drink made of 1/2 ginger ale and 1/2 beer. Dad had light beer and Kay the same as I, and Peter the same as Dad. They served us delicious out-sized sausage on a toothpick, crisped to a lovely brown and with a flavor impossible to describe. The name of the pub is Tamlin's Lamb Inn and the swinging sign had a picture of a little white lamb gamboling on the green. I am sure no "Mary" ever had a prettier lamb. The pub building dates from 1520 and is in remarkably good condition. People were quiet voiced and orderly. The young crowd was just coming in as we left.

April 15th, 1961 Bexhill, Sussex, England

• April 15th, 1961
• Bexhill, Sussex, England
• Sunny-mild

This morning Peter drove us to Hasting (site of the battle of Hastings) where we watched Charles and James play cricket at the Central Cricket Ground. Then we explored Hastings Castle,  Situated on a high point over-looking the Sea (Eng. Channel). The castle was built by Wm. the Conqueror  in the year 1067 or 68 but its dungeons and cells were built far back in antiquity.  The Whispering dungeon is a place where prisoners were tortured and by some quality of the sandstone, whispers from the victims in the torture cells were transmitted to the guards whose purpose it was to listen.  In one of  the cell walls is a carving of a horse done by some Saxon at the beginning or near the beginning of time.*

This afternoon Kay and I with Robert and Charles went over to Egerton Park where the two boys were given a tennis lesson. Dad and Peter went to play golf.

Planned to visit a pub tonight but everyone tired, so we shall postpone it for another time.

*In the castle of Hastings there is the site of the high alter at which Thomas Becket said Mass.  He was at the Castle for about two years and Roman Catholics make pilgrimages to this holy place.

April 14th, 1961 Meadow House/London/Bexhill

• April 14th, 1961
• Meadow House/London/England
• Rainy in a.m. Clearing and sunny later in the day.

Came up to London today from Brentwood.  Check our bags at the station and took the underground from Liverpool St. to Westminster.  Went through St. Margaret's Church, the original parish church of the abbey.  Foundations laid in 1000. About 200 years ago, it was separated from Westminster Abbey. Of course, to a Roman Catholic, all has a familiar and understandable air. Saw burial places of Eliz I, Mary Stewart, James I, and all the other notables. Also, the coronation chair.

Had a lovely lunch at St. Stephens Restaurant opposite the Houses of Parliament but did not go through as we had to meet Peter at 2:30 pm. Got to the Great Eastern Hotel in good time to connect with Peter and drive down to Bexhill.  He has a lovely new Jaguar which rides easily and has a speed capacity of around 130 miles per hour.

The ride down into Sussex and Kent is beautiful. The rolling landscape is much like Western Massachusetts.  We stopped at an ancient castle knoll containing 365 rooms and 52 staircases, 7 courtyards. As it takes an hour plus to go through we just visited the courtyards and Great Hall.  The castle dates from the time of King John 1199-1216. The Duchess of Windsor met her Edward there at some sort of entertainment,  Kay and Peter have a lovely spacious home in Bexhill. There is an air of family living which is very comfortable and easy.  It was a delight to see them all, and we spent most of the time getting acquainted all over again. The sea is only a few minutes walk from their home.

After a lovely dinner, we gathered in the drawing room for conversation and a bit of television.

The boys were pleased with the games we brought them, and James and I had a great time playing concentration.  Kay promises me an Old Castle for tomorrow.

Kay is Ervin's niece, Kathleen Putnam.  She married Peter Murray Willis, the Peter mentioned above.  Unfortunately, they didn't give the name of the castle they visited.  Given the clues they give, someone should be able to figure it out, but I haven't tried.

April 13th, 1961 Meadow House

• April 13th, 1961
• Meadow House
• Fair-mild

Visited Brentwood proper this a.m. Went to Launderette to do some cloths and shopped in a cute little pastry shop where we bought tarts to bring home to Ann.  This afternoon Dad went by bus to Chelmsford where he explored the place as is his wont and pleasure.  Saw an old windmill which had been restored.  Visited the fish market and saw some fresh Scotch salmon that made his mouth water, but at 11 shillings a lb.  which soon dried up his mouth from the price angle.

Visited Ann's parents for a cocktail hour before dinner tonight. Very pleasant.

April 12th, 1961 Meadow House, Cornsland, Brentwood, Essex

• April 12th, 1961
• Meadow House, Cornsland, Brentwood, Essex
• Cloudy-raw

Took the train to London to explore London Tower which took us most of the day.  Had lunch at the Tower Restaurant.  It was our first good view of the Thames which it would be unwise to compare with any of America's rivers.  What it lacks in cleanliness and beauty is amply made up for in richness of history and tradition. At the Tower of London was saw so much that one small book could not encompass  it; The Queens' House where those who were condemned spent their last days; The place where the little Prices were murdered by their wicked uncle; St. John's Chapel where the knights kept all-night vigils; and where the Archbishop of Canterbury was murdered at the alter, and Mary Tudor was betrothed to Phillip II of Spain.  Beauchamp Tower is another interesting place. The signature of Robert Dudley is one of many interesting ones carved at the entrance, when he was imprisoned there. He later became Earl of Leicester and Elizabeth's favorite.  Around the fireplace are many inscriptions among them one by Arundel 6/22/1587.  

The Bloody Tower was built by Henry III and the tower was added over it in the reign of Richard II. Sir Walter Raleigh was one of the many imprisoned here.  Here he wrote his History of the World during the long imprisonment.

Also saw Green-site of execution of Anne Boleyn and others.

April 11th, 1961 Meadow House, Cornsland, Brentwood, Essex, England

• April 11th, 1961
• Meadow House, Cornsland, Brentwood, Essex, Eng.
• Clear, Mild Sunny

Meadow House is even more charming by daylight.  The garden is perfectly delightful and I plan to describe it more fully in my journal. Took Clarissa for a walk in the park.  We had a wonderful time with her, - a bright and very attractive little person-and enjoyed getting acquainted.

Dad went out in the afternoon exploring the countryside. Got to Ockendon, a nearby town and saw a church built in 1326, the original door is Norman and still in good condition.  He also saw the farm from which they took the merino sheep to Australia with which to start their herds.

The church that she mentioned was like St. Nicholas of Myra.

April 10th, 1961-Abd Queen Mary

• April 10th, 1961
• Abd Queen Mary
• Cloudy-Mild-Showery

Docked at Cherbourg at about 8:30 AM. Thrilled to see the coastline of France as we came in.  After breakfast we were permitted to leave the ship and go exploring. Most of the people walked but we took a taxi about the city.  Another passenger asked if he could join us and he spoke very good French was able to interpret much from the driver that we might have missed. Went up on Fort Roule 107 meters high and looked over Cherbourg.

Saw the Musee de Liberation. Thought we would be wrecked going down the steep pitches with the driver gesturing with both hands off the wheel.  Fort Roule was the site of fierce fighting during the 2nd WW, 35000 Germans were trapped on the Peninsula and the Eng + Am's bombed it unceasingly for 5 days.

Our taxi driver told us the the Germans had headquarters in Cherbourg for two years prior to the outbreak of the war.

Frenzy of packing. We will go through customs about 9:00 pm. Will call Jim from Southampton. We are now in sight of the English coast.* 

Docked at Southampton and was through customs by 11 pm. Boat train very comfortable.  Much prefer the English system of side cars to our American aisle trains. "Put" and I had train compartment to ourselves and were able to relax. Jim was waiting with the car, and the ride to Brentwood was very comfortable.

Meadow House where Jim and Ann live with Clarissa (age 5) is charming with a gracious, hospitable atmosphere, reflecting its occupants.  Had tea and went to bed about 3 a.m. I do so like the English system of lavatory and bath separate, with basin and running water in the room.

*Southampton Solents

Comments: I believe Jim was a nickname for my first cousin once removed, Amos Weldon Putnam and the Ann they mention was his wife Ann Elizabeth Campbell.  Amos would have been Ervin's ("Put's") nephew.

April 9th, 1961: onboard Queen Mary

• April 9th, 1961
• on-board Queen Mary
• Windy-sunny-showery in afternoon and evening. SW gale moderating rough sea, heavy swell moderately

Mass at 9:30 am in the 1st class lounge.

Had a most difficult ship quiz for the day in which we matched up riddles against surnames in the passenger list. I knew I had several wrong but passed it in anyway, and to my delight found I was winner again.  Received a beautiful real leather manicure case completely fitted.  Attended cabaret and bingo after dinner. Afternoon on the sun deck.

April 8th, 1961 Queen Mary

• April 8th, 1961
• Queen Mary
• Sunny and windy aboard WSW gale, very rough sea, very heavy swell

Lay in our deck chairs a good portion of the day.

Played a little shuffle board. Visited the ship's laundry where there is every facility for washing and ironing.  Got well caught up on our laundry. A rainbow in the spray has been following us for days. Very lovely!

Much entertainment in the smoking room evenings. Cabaret, music and bingo.  Won over 8 L at bingo and was quite thrilled.

April 7th, 1961 Queen Mary

• April 7th, 1961
• Queen Mary
• near westerly gale rough sea, heavy swells cloudy-gusts of rain, rougher than it has been

Today I passed in a quiz  called "Which is Which" in which a  familiar thing must be matched up with one of two meanings. The were 20 questions and imagine my surprise to find my name listed as winner.  The food continues very good, and the service and attention given everywhere on board is excellent.  

We take salt water baths rinsing off with fresh water from a small tub. It is most invigorating and almost as good as a swim in the ocean.  Met a very interesting person* who had photos of Leeds castle in Maidstone. She lives in one of the lodges and has charge of the Castle while her husband is the caterer.  She has been in the Bahamas at the residence there of her employer and had a vast fund of interesting experiences. She invited us to visit her and go through Leeds castle.  It is one of three castles left in England with the original water moat + draw bridge.

*Mrs. Marjorie Borret

April 6th, 1961 Queen Mary

• April 6th, 1961
• Queen Mary
• Rough sea, moderate to heavy swell Cloudy-Milder WNW wind

Today we reported to the immigration inspector with our passports. Took a chance on the Captain's Tote for the day (mileage in 24 hrs) and picked the correct number of miles. Got 1 pound note, 2 half crowns and 2 shillings all of which took me a little time to figure out.  The initial investment was 35¢, so it was a good profit $3.43.

Wonderful entertainment this evening in the Smoking Room-International Dances and a good vocalist. A game of bingo with very fine stakes.

April 5th, 1961 N.Y. and aboard Queen Mary

• April 5th, 1961
• N.Y. and aboard Queen Mary
• Fair-occasional cloudiness

Florence Taylor now lives in N.Y. so I rang her up. Later she came to see use off, bringing a bottle of champagne for a Bon Voyage gift. Helen joined us for breakfast at the Dorset and come down, also, to see us off.

The last time I was aboard the Queen Mary was some 7-8 yrs. ago and I had forgotten what a wonderful ship she is. Our cabin is adequate-in fact fairly comfortable and after we had complied with the usual formalities, filling out our declaration forms, etc., we wondered about the ship, finally landing atop the sun deck where we lay in our chairs for about an hour, sunning ourselves.

The meals on the ship are excellent and I am afraid it will be hard on Put's waistline, be he has been warned and is paying no heed-so far!

Letters from Jim and the Moncures when we arrived aboard. Very nice-especially Jim's-which made us feel quite at home.

People on board seem to be well behaved with the few exceptions one finds anywhere.

April 4th, 1961 New York-Dorset Hotel

• April 4th, 1961
• New York-Dorset Hotel
• Fair-Cloudless

Arrived at the Dorset about 1:15 PM after a trip to the peir with our luggage.  All taxi men in New York are valuable but we picked the most valuable of the all. Quite entertaining in fact.

Ate dinner at a little restaurant on W. 55th Street.  Exceptionally good cuisine. 

After dinner we strolled up 5th Avenue and visited St. Thomas Episcopal Church and St. Matthews. Did a bit of window shopping but one can see the counterparts of these 5th Ave. styles in any moderate dress shop.

Taking a break from the McCann Story: Mary and Ervin Putnam's 1961 European trip

I have a copy of a travel journal my Grandmother, Mary Gertrude Connelly Putnam wrote about her trip to Europe with Ervin Earl Putnam in 1961 that I thought I would transcribe.  The trip went from April 4th to June 6th and I'll post the entries on the appropriate days.  They had a list of locations they visited at the front of the book, so I've mapped them out here.  AS I go through the entries I might add more locations or make them more precise.